Cosmeto-textiles: State of Art, Fibers & Textiles

Authors Mukesh Kumar Singh, Varun VK, Behera BK

Cosmetotextiles are fast emerging as today’s most potential customer lifestyle. Both men and women on both side of the Atlantic are equally excited by the concept of well-being clothes, especially those worn close to the body and capable of having cosmetic effects. Textiles which provide cosmetic and biological functions, such as pleasant feeling, energizing, slimming, refreshing, vitalizing, skin glowing, anti-ageing, body care, fitness and health, are categorizes as cosmetotextiles. The wellness or health promoting aspects of textile finishes have become a delightful functional matter. Wellness can be defined as a pleasant state free from disease, a healthy balance between the human body and mind. Wellness has become a social determination which symbolizes the wish for eternal youth against ageing. The extracts of natural products and selected essential oils are added to textiles, which not only have healing properties but also keep the wearer fresh and vigorous, The Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) is a scale to express the activeness of skin in terms of the moisture level in the horny layer of the skin surface. At a moisture level of 20%, the skin remains lustrous and elastic; now it reduces to 10%, the skin becomes dry and rough. The merger of two apparently different sectors – cosmetics and textiles clears the way to climb the heights of cosmetotextiles. Cosmetotextiles are capable of imparting skincare benefits, combating ageing and promoting a feeling of wellness or well-being, through micro-encapsulation. In other words, a cosmetotextile is a textile consumer article containing a durable cosmetic substrate which is released over time. The European Cosmetic Directive has defined cosmetic products as “any textile article containing a substance or preparation that is released over time on different superficial parts of the human body, notably on human skin, and containing special functionalities such as cleansing, perfuming, changing appearance, protection, keeping in good condition or the correction of body odors is called a cosmetotextile”. Cosmetotextiles can be considered as cosmetic textiles when the cosmetic ingredients grafted onto the textiles have to be transferred to the wearer’s skin, and the amounts transferred have to be enough to ensure that cosmetic benefits are possible. The European Union formed a working group – WG-25 to form test standards for cosmetotextiles, Classification of cosmetotextiles on the basis of their influence on the human body, in terms of their influence on the human body, cosmetotextiles can be classified as follows, cosmetotextiles for slimming, cosmetotextiles for moisturizing, cosmetotextiles for energizing, cosmetotextiles for perfuming, cosmetotextiles for refreshing and relaxing, cosmetotextiles for vitalizing, cosmetotextiles for UV protection, cosmetotextiles for improving the firmness and elasticity of skin. Direct coating on textile products Some active agents are coated on fibre, yarn, or a fabric surface according to the suitability of the existing facility and the use of the end product. Bed linen can be made more comfortable and healthier using fibers coated by microcapsules with essential oils or antibacterial or anti-dust agents as well as anti-mite chemicals. Fuji Spinning Co. Japan disclosed. in a European patent that fibre treated with an emulsion of alpha-tocopherol acetate gets a reduced antioxidant function. Host-guest molecule technology is required to prolong the antioxidant function on the textile surface vitamin E complex does not show any substantivity with textile surfaces, padding, spraying, coating or printing are the other alternative application techniques. Aloe vera has proved that textiles treated with it are very pleasant to wear, having a significant effect on energy levels, which offers a feeling of well-being. Aloe vera is used to obtain antibacterial, antiviral, antimycotic, wound healing and anti-inflammatory effects. Invista International, Switzerland, suggested that the use of graduated compression in garments for the legs offers many physiological benefits for the wearer, such as reduced fatigue and leg swelling, as well as enhanced athletic performance. Invista developed new lycra leg care stockings which are a combination of function and fashion, with the potential to significantly reduce post-exercise muscle soreness. Tejin Co. Ltd, Japan, was the first to manufacture and sell two million of its trade marked ‘Amino Jeans’ within 24 hours. They are treated with arginine and blown, being new potential in the wellness innovation market. Arginine is an amino acid said to maintain skin youthness, Skintex technology incorporates active ingredients by micro-encapsulation. The active ingredients are encapsulated inside the microcapsule and firmly anchored on the fibre within the fabric of a textile without affecting the feel and visual appearance of the textile. In a typical application, chitosan is encapsulated to prevent warmth, drying out and cold. At the same time, chitosan helps to protect the skin from dehydration and keeps a supple and velvety soft touch. The ingredients are released either by friction during wearing or the chitosan layer is slowly reduced over time through the wearer’s enzymes. Each textile structure has a limit to load the extra ingredients. A highly active ingredient in each microcapsule with maximum utilization of the capsule interior is required for attaining a long lasting well-being effect. Skintex wellbeing ingredients are highly concentrated, and hence, even with a very small release, their effect can be seen and felt. Moreover, they are dermatologically tested according to the Ecotex 100 standard. In terms of traces of vitamin E, this technology is effective even after 100 washings if clothes are washed according to Skintex recommendations, A clinically proven patented fabric design from Solidea, Italy, offers cellulite reducing shorts and hosiery range by the micro-massaging of body parts. The manufacturer claims that “MicroMassage Magic” garments are helpful for smoothing and reshaping the bottom and legs, improving the health and appearance of legs and thighs. This patented design of Solidea combines compression with massage through everyday movement. The Solidea range in Australia is going to include Magic Maman Anti-cellulite maternity shaping shorts that promote blood circulation and reduce water retention. Typical MicroMassage Magic Shorts contain 80% polyamide, 18% Elastane and 2% cotton fibres. The USA based company Cupron Inc has launched a commercial range of pillows and pillowcases with the slogan “Beauty while You Sleep”, which helps to reduce wrinkles and liver spots. Polyester filament was treated with wicking surfactant to maintain the sufficient breathability of pillows and pillow covers. Cupron used the copper oxide to offer antimicrobial and healing properties. This compound also promotes the healing of wounds because it can bind amino acids and create collagen. In the case of natural and solution spun fibers, Cupron used copper oxide as a melt additive in melt spun fibers coated on a fibre surface. The clinical trials of Cupron fibres showed that they improve skin tone and texture significantly. Cupron used 4×1 twill weave fabric with a copper impregnated weft and a Pima cotton warp. Cognis, Germany, has introduced chemically and technically fine-tuned baby diapers, “Caremelts”, with maximum dermatological compatibility based on the application of phase change materials. Caremelts work close to room temperature. Caremelts utilise the combination of cosmetic waxes with fabrics which melt partially at body temperature. Caremelts are manufactured in a discontinuous way in order not to disturb the liquid acquisition functionality of the diapers or other hygiene potentials. Skinsoft 415 New: This finish was developed by Daiwa Chemical Inc., Japan, which is mainly composed of phospholipid containing 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine (MPC) with phosphatidylcholine polar groups. Skinsoft 415 New, based on water soluble polymer, exhibits a superior moisture retaining effect. Sweet softener AN is also available for use with Skinsoft 415 New. This finish improves soil release, antibrowning and antistatic effects. Ohara Paragium Chemicals Kyoto, Japan, have launched a broad spectrum of skin care and anti-ageing functional finishes for textiles, some of which are available on the market: Parafine SC-1000: This finish was developed by Ohara Paragium Chem. JP. and mainly consists of silk based amino acids. The amino acids are rich in moisture retaining properties which promote skin well-being by enhancing the amount of moisture on skin. n Parafine SC-3000: This finish imparts a fat-burning effect by the presence of capsaicin, as well as a moisture-retaining and skincare effect with raspberry and squalane, respectively. Parafine SC-5000: This finish contains extracts from rice germ oil (ferulic acid and g -oryzanol) and vitamin E. This combination offers anti-oxidation properties which contribute to skin anti-ageing. This finish promotes anti-oxidation, bio-membrane stabilisation and blood circulation in human skin. EVOTM Care Vital: This finish, developed by Dystar Auxiliaries GmbH,Frankfurt, Germany, contains a combination of vitamin E, Aloe Vera and Jojoba oil that offers an anti-ageing function in textiles. These natural substances are embedded in silicone matrix to enhance the wash fastness of the finished fabric. Evo Care Vital is applied as the last step in the conventional pad and exhaust finishing process. DyStar has also introduced Evo Care BeeWell with beewax, Evo Care AVP and Evo Care AVS with Aloe Vera and Evo Care SJO with Jojoba oil. Evo Care Vital fulfills current cosmetic requirements with its anti-ageing effect and the fact that it is applicable over a broad range of textiles that come directly into contact with the skin, consistent improvement in skin integrity by exposing factory workers to dry coated aloe vera gloves. Ajinomoto with Mizuno Corp USA with brand name “Amino Veil”, “arginine” amino acid, Tennis and golf clothes. Amino acid dissolves into the wearer’s perspiration, enhancing the material’s ability to absorb moisture, keeping the skin’s pH level balanced and regenerating the skin, Yonex: Sports cloth manufacturer, Xylitol, Tennis and badminton clothes: These fabrcis mainly consist of xylitol, which absorbs heat when it comes into contact with water and offers a cool feel (when the wearer start sweating), Fuji Spinning, Japan with Brand Name V-Up, Pro-vitamin C soluble in sebum, Cosmeto-clothing: Pro-vitamin C converts into vitamin C in the presence of sebum and is applied on blouses, and men and women’s shirts, Invista (previously DuPont Textiles & Interiors) with International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF), Aloe Vera, and Chitosan with other PCMs, Leg wear and intimate clothing for both men, women and Yoga Lines: Delivering cosmetic and well-being benefits like freshness, moisturizing and massage for leg wear and intimate apparel. Stretch and recovery function through the use of Lycra , Richa (BE) Collection, 2007, phase-change materials (PCM), Close-fitting women’s motorbike pants: having a thin lining of Schoeller’s phase change material, which can be removed in warmer weather and reattached at lower temperatures, Cognis oleochemicals Corp.with brand name “Skintex, distilled oils of plants,fruits and leaves, This fabric has the ability to provide gentle care to tired feet and legs with the special effects of invigorating aromas. This functionality lasts up to several launderings, Dogi International Fabrics, aloe vera, Smart Fabrics with aloe vera nanoparticles which provide moisturising, calming, antioxidant and anti-ageing benefits, LYOSILK® Hefel Textil GmbH, Austria, Tencel and silk fibre, Lyosilk® consists of microfine Tencel fibres and pure silk. 300-1000 meter long individual delicate threads are twisted together to form open and soft silk yarn to use as weft. The actively breathable, fluffy Tencel® fibres become shinier, smoother and even more refined by the incorporation of pure silk, SEACELL®ACTIVE Hefel Textil GmbH, Austria, Lyocell fibre sea algae and silver ions, HEFEL has begun using t SeaCell® Active fibre in its bedding. The fibre is made from 100% cellulose and algae and is enriched with pure silver, which has strong anti-bacterial and fungicidal properties. According to Friedrich Schiller university in Jena, patients with chronic skin diseases can directly benefit from the new SeaCell® Active textiles. Functionality is not reduced even after 20 washes at 60 “C. , Solidea, Italy MicroMassage Magic, 80% polyamide;18% elastin; 2% cotton, The MicroMassage collection provides elegant shaping as well as the toning and smoothing of skin. The key is in the special patented three-dimensional wave-like knitting process of the fabric, which lightly massages skin by working with natural body movement to promote circulation in skin and fat tissue and stimulate the drainage of fluids causing orange peel, Cosmetil and Variance, Hydrabra, ultra-thin cloth with extracts of Padina Pavonica, The cosmetically inspired fluid lingerie “Hydrabra” provides moisturising and firming effects