Authors Han, J., Liu, L., Fan, Z., Zhang, Z., Yang, S. and Tang, Y.,
Consumers rising demands for functional fabrics have led to the burgeoning of a revolutionary type of cosmetotextiles, which are textile products containing various cosmetic active ingredients for energizing, skincare, and beautifying. Phytochemicals and/or novel formulations are required for both product development and customer attraction. Encapsulation and grafting/coating technologies have provided these cosmetic ingredients with effective stabilization, sustained dermal delivery and prolonged dermo cosmetic efficiency, Cosmetotextiles are defined as textiles that release active ingredients at regular time intervals when in contact with the human body by the Textile Industry and Clothing Standards Agency. The development of cosmetotextiles dates to the late 80s where a Japanese company (Tejin Co. Ltd) manufactured and by incorporating the amino acid arginine in the fabric for skin rejuvenation efficiency. Besides functional clothing, cosmetotextiles are also emerging as a new type of pharmaceutical/cosmetic carrier (e.g. hydrogels, facial masks and healing patches) in medicinal and beautifying products. Cosmetic Ingredients Tailored for Cosmetotextile Application. A large number of cosmetic ingredients, including minerals, synthetic chemicals, animal and plant derivatives, have been successfully grafted onto cosmetotextiles. Encapsulation has been employed as the main technique for stabilizing natural cosmetic ingredients into the textiles by which the release of active ingredients from capsules occurs following heat, biodegradation, friction, or pressure between the body and fabric during use. This section summarizes the most popular cosmetic ingredients used in cosmetotextiles. Chitosan, Chitosan is a N-deacetylated derivative of chitin isolated from crustaceans with good antioxidant and antimicrobial activities. Chitosan has wide application in functional clothing, cosmetics, and pharmaceuticals due to its ability to improve skin texture and hydration, stabilize sensitive ingredients and promote cell regeneration. The presence of abundant amine groups makes chitosan a biocompatible polymeric material ideal for encapsulation. For example, Cognis, a German textile company, has developed a cosmetic textile finish, Skintex®, wherein the active ingredients are encapsulated in chitosan based cosmetic microcapsules. The microcapsules can be embedded onto the fabric for products of different efficacy, including moisturizing, cooling, energizing, relaxing, antiheavy legs and mosquito repellent benefits. Release of the active ingredients can be triggered by the gentle friction created between the microcapsules and the skin during routine use, or biodegradation of chitosan membrane by skin enzymes. Despite all the benefits, the aqueous solubility of chitosan limited its application in skin delivery of lipophilic compounds. Hyaluronic acid (HA), HA is a natural linear polysaccharide that has been used extensively in cosmetic products to improve skin elasticity, turgor, and moisture by acting as a sponge in the skin to retain water. Meryl® Hyaluronan, an anti-ageing cloth patented by Nylstar was developed by incorporating HA-loaded nanoparticles in the spinning process. Medline Industries, Inc. developed Hyalomatrix®, a 3D HYAFF® (HA ester) matrix, for wound healing. The 3D scaffold facilitated an ordered reconstruction of the dermal tissues. However, the clinical application of pure HA may be limited by its rapid enzymatic degradation at physiological conditions. To overcome this limitation, studies have been conducted to use covalent cross-linking of HA with polysaccharides with a slower degradation rate under the action of hyaluronidase. In a recent study, HA grafted pullulan polymers were prepared by one step esterification and demonstrated high swelling ratio and a relatively quick hemostasis ability, making it a promising wound healing dressing. Essential oils, Essential oils are volatile compounds extracted from the flowers, seeds, leaves and barks of various aroma plants. Essential oils have wide applications in pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. For cosmetotextile application, essential oils of pleasant smells or cosmetic efficiencies such as antimicrobial, antioxidant, and moisturizing and cell rejuvenation are the most frequently employed functional ingredients. For example, lavender oils are favored in the manufacture of pillow fabrics because of its pleasant aroma smell and antimicrobial property. Mens slimming cloth launched by the fashion brand Legends & Heroes under the brand Ript Skinz was infused with a skincare formula containing time-released microcapsules enriched with vitamin E, caffeine, retinol and essential oils extracted from apricot kernel (Prunus armeniaca)and rose hip (Rosa acicularis Lindl) After ever 10 washes, the garment can be re-sprayed with the formula again for continued use. Recently, essential oils have been more reported in encapsulated systems, such as micro-/nano-sized capsules, to overcome their poor thermal stability as well as to improve sustainability during ordinary washing processes. Peptides, Peptides exist in vivo as amino acid polymers and function in the skin only for a short period of time before decomposing into amino acids. Peptides can be subgrouped into three types (signal peptide, carrier peptides and neuro-transmitter inhibiting peptides) depending on the mechanism of action in vivo. Peptides are widely used in cosmetics however the types used in cosmetotextiles is limited to copper peptide, collagen peptide, and acetyl hexapeptide-3. Peptides have many functions as cosmetic ingredients including skin moisturizing, firming and elasticity-promotion, anti-wrinkle etc. Lipotec, spain, marketed an anti-wrinkle cosmetotextile containing hexapeptide (acetyl hexapeptide-3) under the name of Argireline. Argireline nanoparticles have also been used to manufacture antiageing facial mask s, including Sugar-based Frosting Sheet from Kopykake (Calif.) and Collagen Sheet from Dr. Suwelack Skin & HealthCare AG (Germany). Besides, peptides can play a role in scaffold construction for biomedical patches just like chitosan. In 2014, Loo et al. investigated the wound healing performance of peptide-nanofiber hydrogels with combined advantages of hydrogels and nanofiber scaffolds while maintaining skin hydration. However, the high-water content and large pore size of most peptide hydrogels may result in relatively rapid release of drug. Aloe Vera, Aloe vera is a perennial tropical plant rich in minerals, polysaccharides, vitamins, and amino acids, making it a good antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and moisturizing agent used in skin care products. For cosmetotextile use, Dogi International Fabrics, Spain, launched a line of Smart Fabrics doped with aloe vera nanoparticles which provide moisturizing, calming, antioxidant and antiaging benefits. Likewise, a cosmetically inspired fluid lingerie Hydrabra has also been commercialized by the incorporation of aloe vera. In addition, fabrics coated with aloe vera loaded nanoparticles have been reported with improved wash durability and antimicrobial activity. Commercial microcapsules of aloe vera extracts can also be coated onto cotton/polyester fibers by using atmospheric-pressure plasma printing technique in an environmentally safe and low cost manner. Besides cosmetics, aloe vera gel have been extensively used as therapeutic remedies. In a recent study, Dey el al. developed a aloe vera based bio-composite hydrogel which can release UV absorbing flavonoids that may provide better wound-healing efficacy. Cosmetic Ingredients Tailored for Cosmetotextile Application, Many cosmetic ingredients, including minerals, synthetic chemicals, animal and plant derivatives, have been successfully grafted onto cosmetotextiles. Encapsulation has been employed as the main technique for stabilizing natural cosmetic ingredients into the textiles by which the release of active ingredients from capsules occurs following heat, biodegradation, friction, or pressure between the body and fabric during use. This section summarizes the most popular cosmetic ingredients used in cosmetotextiles. Chitosan, Chitosan is a N-deacetylated derivative of chitin isolated from crustaceans with good antioxidant and antimicrobial activities. Chitosan has wide application in functional clothing, cosmetics, and pharmaceuticals due to its ability to improve skin texture and hydration, stabilize sensitive ingredients and promote cell regeneration. The presence of abundant amine groups makes chitosan a biocompatible polymeric material ideal for encapsulation. For example, Cognis, a German textile company, has developed a cosmetic textile finish, Skintex®, wherein the active ingredients are encapsulated in chitosan based cosmetic microcapsules. The microcapsules can be embedded onto the fabric for products of different efficacy, including moisturizing, cooling, energizing, relaxing, anti-heavy legs and mosquito repellent benefits. Release of the active ingredients can be triggered by the gentle friction created between the microcapsules and the skin during routine use, or biodegradation of chitosan membrane by skin enzymes. Despite all the benefits, the aqueous solubility of chitosan limited its application in skin delivery of lipophilic compounds. Hyaluronic acid (HA), HA is a natural linear polysaccharide that has been used extensively in cosmetic products to improve skin elasticity, turgor, and moisture by acting as a sponge in the skin to retain water. Meryl® Hyaluronan, an anti-ageing cloth patented by Nylstar was developed by incorporating HA-loaded nanoparticles in the spinning process. Medline Industries, Inc. developed Hyalomatrix®, a 3D HYAFF® (HA ester) matrix, for wound healing. The 3D scaffold facilitated an ordered reconstruction of the dermal tissues. However, the clinical application of pure HA may be limited by its rapid enzymatic degradation at physiological conditions. To overcome this limitation, studies have been conducted to use covalent cross-linking of HA with polysaccharides with a slower degradation rate under the action of hyaluronidase. In a recent study, HA grafted pullulan polymers were prepared by one step esterification and demonstrated high swelling ratio and a relatively quick hemostasis ability, making it a promising wound healing dressing. Essential oils, Essential oils are volatile compounds extracted from the flowers, seeds, leaves and barks of various aroma plants. Essential oils have wide applications in pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. For cosmetotextile application, essential oils of pleasant smells or cosmetic efficiencies such as antimicrobial, antioxidant, and moisturizing and cell rejuvenation are the most frequently employed functional ingredients. For example, lavender oils are favored in the manufacture of pillow fabrics because of its pleasant aroma smell and antimicrobial property. Mens slimming cloth launched by the fashion brand Legends & Heroes under the brand Ript Skinz was infused with a skincare formula containing time-released microcapsules enriched with vitamin E, caffeine, retinol and essential oils extracted from apricot kernel (Prunus armeniaca)and rose hip (Rosa acicularis Lindl) After ever 10 washes, the garment can be re-sprayed with the formula again for continued use. Recently, essential oils have been more reported in encapsulated systems, such as micro-/nano-sized capsules, to overcome their poor thermal stability as well as to improve sustainability during ordinary washing processes. Peptides, Peptides exist in vivo as amino acid polymers and function in the skin only for a short period of time before decomposing into amino acids. Peptides can be sub grouped into three types (signal peptide, carrier peptides and neuro-transmitter inhibiting peptides) depending on the mechanism of action in vivo. Peptides are widely used in cosmetics however the types used in cosmetotextiles is limited to copper peptide, collagen peptide, and acetyl hexapeptide-3. Peptides have many functions as cosmetic ingredients including skin moisturizing, firming and elasticity-promotion, anti-wrinkle etc., Lipotec, spain, marketed an anti-wrinkle cosmetotextile containing hexapeptide (acetyl hexapeptide-3) under the name of Argireline. Argireline nanoparticles have also been used to manufacture antiaging facial mask s, including Sugar-based Frosting Sheet from Kopykake (Calif.) and Collagen Sheet from Dr. Suwelack Skin & HealthCare AG (Germany). Besides, peptides can play a role in scaffold construction for biomedical patches just like chitosan. In 2014 investigated the wound healing performance of peptide-nanofiber hydrogels with combined advantages of hydrogels and nanofiber scaffolds while maintaining skin hydration. However, the high-water content and large pore size of most peptide hydrogels may result in relatively rapid release of drug. Aloe Vera, Aloe vera is a perennial tropical plant rich in minerals, polysaccharides, vitamins and amino acids, making it a good antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and moisturizing agent used in skin care products. For cosmetotextile use, Dogi International Fabrics, Spain, launched a line of Smart Fabrics doped with aloe vera nanoparticles which provide moisturizing, calming, antioxidant and antiaging benefits. Likewise, a cosmetically inspired fluid lingerie Hydrabra has also been commercialized by the incorporation of aloe vera. In addition, fabrics coated with aloe vera loaded nanoparticles have been reported with improved wash durability and antimicrobial activity. Commercial microcapsules of aloe vera extracts can also be coated onto cotton/polyester fibers by using atmospheric-pressure plasma printing technique in an environmentally safe and low-cost manner. Besides cosmetics, aloe vera gel have been extensively used as therapeutic remedies. In a recent study, Dey el al. developed a aloe vera based bio-composite hydrogel which can release UV absorbing flavonoids that may provide better wound-healing efficacy. Vitamins, Vitamin E and C are widely used in the cosmetic finish of cosmetotextiles. Vitamin E is a powerful antioxidant belonging to the lipid-soluble type, the grafting of which in microcapsules into fabrics has been reported to significantly increase skin moisture and elasticity as well as reduce skin wrinkle and roughness. Coating cotton fabrics with protein-based nanoparticles containing vitamin E by a low-cost pad-cure method has shown an effective approach to impart them with antioxidant properties. Besides, vitamin C, or L-ascorbic acid, is the most plentiful water-soluble antioxidant that protects the skin intracellular structures from oxidative stress. Fuji Spinning, Japan, incorporated a provitamin C, which can be converted into vitamin C in the presence of sebum, on blouses and shirts. Gelatin/vitamin C microcapsules have been successfully prepared using the emulsion hardening technique and grafted onto textile materials by padding vitamins, Vitamin E and C are widely used in the cosmetic finish of cosmetotextiles. Vitamin E is a powerful antioxidant belonging to the lipid-soluble type, the grafting of which in microcapsules into fabrics has been reported to significantly increase skin moisture and elasticity as well as reduce skin wrinkle and roughness. Coating cotton fabrics with protein-based nanoparticles containing vitamin E by a low-cost pad-cure method has shown an effective approach to impart them with antioxidant properties. Besides, vitamin C, or L-ascorbic acid, is the most plentiful water-soluble antioxidant that protects the skin intracellular structures from oxidative stress. Fuji Spinning, Japan, incorporated a provitamin C, which can be converted into vitamin C in the presence of sebum, on blouses and shirts. Gelatin/vitamin C microcapsules have been successfully prepared using the emulsion hardening technique and grafted onto textile materials by padding.
